UJ researchers have discovered a compound that will help fight skin discoloration

The creation of the new chemical compound is the result of years of work by a team led by Agnieszka Gunia-Krzyżak, PhD, of the Faculty of Pharmacy at the Jagiellonian University Medical College. The team has been studying various types of compounds over the years, including cinnamic acid derivatives for their potential to help treat skin hyperpigmentation. Cinnamic acid is a naturally occurring substance found in some plants, including the popular spice, cinnamon. Researchers have succeeded in obtaining one particular derivative of this acid, which studies have shown has the desirable properties of effectively inhibiting melanin production processes by skin cells. Now the university is looking for an industry partner to conduct the final stage of the research and bring the new cosmetic product to market.

Control of melanin synthesis will help eliminate hyperpigmentation

Melanin is a natural pigment whose main role is to protect the body from the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation. Melanin is produced by melanocytes, special cells found in the deeper layer of the epidermis. This process is catalyzed by one particular enzyme, tyrosinase, among others.

- The compound we discovered effectively inhibits the action of this enzyme, and this means that we have gained the ability to control the amount of melanin in the skin in those areas where it will be directly applied. The idea of the therapy based on our discovery is very simple - by using a cosmetic containing our component in the area of skin discoloration, the cells in that particular place will significantly reduce melanin production, which in time will lead to a brightening of the epidermis and leveling of the discoloration," explains Agnieszka Gunia-Krzyżak, PhD, from the Jagiellonian University Medical College.

Advanced research process

The scientific team notes that it has so far succeeded in conducting a number of tests that should be performed before launching a new cosmetic product. So far, experiments conducted in in vitro models have confirmed both the adequate safety level of the selected compound and its high bioavailability.

- In addition to its proven activity and safety, it is important that this cinnamic acid derivative easily penetrates the epidermal layer, so it has a chance to work effectively within melanocytes, inhibiting the action of the tyrosinase enzyme. In addition, this compound, unlike other substances used so far in skin hyperpigmentation therapies, shows high physical and chemical stability, including in aqueous solutions and in emulsions," adds Dr. Justyna Popiol of the Faculty of Pharmacy, Collegium Medicum of the Jagiellonian University.

Studies conducted so far have confirmed that the new compound has no cytotoxic, mutagenic or genotoxic effects. In verifying its efficacy and safety, researchers from the UJ used, among other things, a model of reconstructed human epidermis. Such a model is based on epidermis obtained from human keratinocytes. In terms of morphological and physiological characteristics, it is similar in structure to natural tissue. Such specially cultured tissue successfully replaces animal studies and is used by many cosmetic manufacturers around the world. Positive passage of tests on such a model precedes the final test, which is testing the product on humans.

Entering the market - with an industry partner

A team of researchers from the Jagiellonian University tested both solutions of the compound and a specially developed cosmetic formulation that is an oil-in-water emulsion. Satisfactory melanogenesis inhibition activity, lack of irritation, and optimal bioavailability were demonstrated.

- Since the compound successfully penetrates the stratum corneum and reaches the living layers of skin tissue, and its properties have already been supported by a number of analyses, the discovery should be regarded as very promising. However, before the product can be released on the market, the final stage of research must be carried out, namely testing the substance on selected groups of people. For this stage, we are looking for an industry partner who is interested in expanding the portfolio of its cosmetic products with this type of compound. We would like to cooperate with such a partner on the basis of a granted license, while our scientific team is ready to provide full substantive support to an external entity that would decide to launch this compound on the market," says Dr. Gabriela Konopka-Cupiał, Director of CITTRU UJ.

The developed compound has intellectual property protection in Poland and abroad. The research was carried out within the framework of the project titled "Innovative cosmetic product supporting the therapy of hyperpigmentation in humans," funded by the National Center for Research and Development under the Leader XI program.

Source: press release