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Skin peeling - the first step to effective care

MedExpress Team

Magdalena Biegańska

Published April 11, 2023 10:38

A radiant, smooth and clean complexion is synonymous with healthy skin. Only regular exfoliation of dead skin allows it to breathe fully and is an important part of the skin care routine. Regular exfoliation creates the ideal conditions for effective care of the face, neck and décolleté.
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There is a constant process of cell replacement on the skin. Some die and new ones appear in their place. Between 20 and 30 years of age, this process takes about 28 days and dead cells spontaneously exfoliate, making way for new ones. Skin cells - keranocytes, which are formed in the basal layer of the epidermis, take several days to mature and migrate to the surface layer of the skin. In this process, they become flattened and lose their cell nucleus, transforming into dead elements of the stratum corneum. However, as we age, the mechanism no longer works so rhythmically and the time extends up to 50 days. Lying on the surface of the epidermis, dead cells cause dry skin, loss of color, roughness and grayness, form thickening, clog pores and accentuate wrinkles. The superfluous but compact dead layer formed on the epidermis hinders the penetration of active ingredients contained in cosmetics.

Supporting the natural physiological process of cleansing brings the desired results after just a few treatments. It allows for the effective renewal of the epidermis, its regeneration, maintaining an appropriate level of hydration and firmness. Even after a treatment performed at home, the effects are clearly noticeable. The older we get, the more we need to attach importance to skin cleansing. In Asian skin care rituals, gentle exfoliation is recommended even on a daily basis, but performed according to the needs will also provide the skin with smoothness, hydration and radiance. The choice of the right product should depend on your skin type. Self-application peels are divided into three basic types: mechanical, enzymatic and so-called gommage. Mechanical peels - fine and coarse-grained - contain in their composition ground seeds of plants, shells, sea shells, volcanic sand, minerals. After application, they are massaged onto the skin to chase away dead cells. Enzymatic scrubs, on the other hand, are based on natural plant enzymes such as papain or bromelanin, low concentration acids or keratinases from yeast, which dissolve dead cells, among others. They are much gentler and their use eliminates mechanical damage to the epidermis. Gommage-type peels, on the other hand, are applied evenly to the skin and, after several minutes, rubbed off the epidermis with the fingers. "Rubbing" should be done slowly and gently, supporting the skin with the fingers of the other hand, so as not to unnecessarily stretch it.

Some peel-of masks are treated as a type of peeling. These are usually substances placed on a suitable material "sheet", which solidify and peel off impurities and dead skin from the skin. This type of cleansing mask also comes in a rinse-off gel. They are particularly effective in removing excess sebum and various types of blackheads and whiteheads. Removing them thanks to the content of film-forming polymers is safe for the epidermis and should not cause any damage. In addition to cleansers, they also contain skin moisturizing, firming and tightening ingredients such as activated charcoal, clays, algae and hyaluronic acid.

In order for a scrub to be effective and not irritate the skin, it is important to choose it judiciously according to skin type. For dry, it is advisable to use fine-grained or enzymatic, gentle products. Watch the effects carefully and do not overdo the frequency. If the skin becomes too red and erythema occurs, to soothe the irritation it is best to spray a soothing thermal water or hydrolate at the site of the treatment. This is also a sign not to exfoliate too often and to choose a gentle dermocosmetic for this purpose. Sensitive and vascular skin, which is extremely delicate and prone to facial erythema, needs a gentle enzyme product that does not require rubbing the skin. A good way to cleanse this type of skin is with low-concentration acid peels, such as those with mandelic acid, which is very gentle yet has strong antibacterial and sebum-regulating properties. An additional advantage is that it is safe to use at any time of the year. Mandelic acid peeling effectively smooths the surface of the skin, visibly firms and brightens it. It also has a soothing effect and reduces hyperpigmentation. Oily and combination skin will most appreciate mechanical fine-grained and stronger enzymatic peeling. It is worth remembering that with this type of skin, you should not perform the procedure more than once a week, so as not to stimulate excessive serum production. In addition, in the case of pimples, it is better to opt for an enzymatic peeling, as this limits the infection of other parts of the face. For skin with pimples, peel-off masks are the safest solution.

Limitations for performing home peels are minor open wounds, fluid- or pus-filled lesions, herpes and dermatophytosis. Certainly, special care should be taken if warts or other moles are present on the face, neck and décolleté. In the case of acne-prone skin, peeling can exacerbate inflammation, so it is better to consult your doctor about the choice of cosmetic and whether you should apply this treatment yourself at home.

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